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Happy Jack O' Lantern Table Runner

Add a pretty touch to your dining room instead of a scary one with this Happy Jack O' Lantern Table Runner. Worked up in filet crochet, the crochet thread of this Halloween table runner makes it look and feel gorgeous while still setting the right holiday mood. It's perfect if you're throwing a party or entertaining guests so that you can show off your homemade Halloween decorations and crochet skills all at the same time.


Crochet Hook6 or 1.8 mm hook (steel)

Yarn Weight(0) Lace (33-40 stitches to 4 inches). Includes crochet thread.


  • Aunt Lydia's Classic Crochet Thread, Size 10:
    • A: 431 Pumpkin (2 balls)
    • B: 12 Black (1 ball)
  • Susan Bates Steel Crochet Hook (US #6, 1.6 mm)
  • Tapestry Needle
  • Heavy Spray Starch
  • Pattern Diagram

Table runner measures 40 x 13” (101.5 x 33 cm) not including fringe. Fringe adds about 10” (25.5 cm) to the length.

14 mesh = 4” (10 cm); 16 rows = 4” (10 cm).

Special Stitches
open-mesh =
Ch 2, skip next 2 stitches, dc in next stitch.
solid-mesh = Dc in next 3 stitches.
Note: When working mesh, each dc and ch counts as one stitch.

1. Table runner is worked by following written instructions and chart. The first few rows of the chart are written out in detail. After working the first few rows, complete the runner by following the chart.
2. Each filled box on the chart represents one solid-mesh and each empty box on the chart represents one open-mesh (see Special Stitches). Read right side rows of chart from right to left and wrong side rows from left to right.
3. A border is worked around the entire outer edge of the runner and a knotted fringe is added across both short edges.
4. When working 2 dc into a ch-2 space, you can work one dc in each of the 2 chains or you can work both dc into the ch-2 space, whichever you prefer.

With A, ch 128
Row 1 (right side): Dc in 8th ch from hook (first open-mesh made), [ch 2, skip next 2 ch, dc in next ch] 10 times (10 more open-mesh made), dc in next 21 ch (7 solid-mesh made), [ch 2, skip next 2 ch, dc in next ch] 4 times (4 open-mesh made), dc in next 27 ch (9 solid-mesh made), (ch 2, skip next 2 ch, dc in next ch) 10 times (10 open-mesh made), turn -- 41 mesh.
Row 2: Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2 here and throughout), skip first ch-2 space, dc in next dc (first open-mesh made), [ch 2, dc in next dc] 8 times (8 more open-mesh made), 2 dc in next ch-2 space, dc in next 7 dc (3 solid-mesh made), [ch 2, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc] 5 times (5 open-mesh made), dc in next 6 dc, [2 dc in next ch-2 space, dc in next dc] 4 times, dc in next 9 dc (9 solid-mesh made), [ch 2, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc] 4 times (4 open-mesh made), [2 dc in next ch-2 space, dc in next dc] twice (2 solid-mesh made), [ch 2, skip next ch-2 space, dc in next dc] 8 times (8 open-mesh made), ch 2, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch (last open-mesh made), turn.
Row 3: Ch 5, skip first ch-2 space, dc in next dc, [ch 2, skip next ch-2 space, dc in next dc] 7 times, 2 dc in next ch-2 space, dc in next 4 dc, ch 2, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc, [ch 2, skip next ch-2 space, dc in next dc] 4 times, [ch 2, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc] 9 times, [ch 2, skip next ch-2 space, dc in next dc] 5 times, ch 2, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc , dc in next 6 dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 space, dc in next dc, [ch 2, skip next ch-2 space, dc in next dc] 7 times, ch 2, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch, turn.
Rows 4–78: Continue to work pattern following chart.
Rows 79–155: Turn chart upside down and work rows again in opposite order, beginning with Row 77 and working down through Row 1.
Fasten off.


1. First 2 rounds of border will look like a checkerboard of open- and solid-mesh.
2. Notice that there is a column of open-meshes across each long edge of the runner. You will work into the spaces and posts (at top of each row) between the spaces in the same way that you would work across the top of a row of open-meshes.
3. When working across the top edge, work into the stitches (each ch and each dc count as one st) of the last row. When working across the lower edge, work into the opposite side of the foundation chain (each ch counts as one st).

With right side facing, join B with slip st in a corner to work across a long edge of the runner.

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in space at end of next row, ***dc at top of same row, *ch 2, skip space at end of next row, dc at top of row, 2 dc in space at end of next row, dc at top of row; repeat from * across long side edge to next corner space, (3 dc, ch 5, 3 dc) in corner space; working across short edge of runner, dc in next st, ch 2, skip next 2 sts (this may be 2 dc or a ch-2 space), dc in next st, **dc in next 3 sts (this may be 3 dc or a ch-2 space and a dc), ch 2, skip next 2 sts, dc in next st; repeat from ** across short edge to next corner space, (3 dc, ch 5, 3 dc) in corner space; repeat from *** to work border across 2nd long side and 2nd short side ending at last corner space, 3 dc in last corner space, ch 5; join with slip st in top of beginning ch-3, do not turn.
Round 2: Ch 5, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc, *2 dc in next ch-2 space, dc in next dc, ch 2, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc; repeat from * to next corner space, (3 dc, ch 5, 3 dc) in corner space, [dc in next dc, **ch 2, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 space, dc in next dc; repeat from ** to next corner space, (3 dc, ch 5, 3 dc) in corner space] 3 times; join with slip st in 3rd ch of beginning ch-5.
Round 3: Ch 5, skip first ch-space, dc in next dc, **ch 2, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc, *ch 2, skip next ch-2 space, dc in next dc, ch 2, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc; repeat from * to next corner space, ch 2, (dc, ch 5, dc) in 3rd ch of corner ch-5, ch 2, skip remainder of corner ch-5, dc in next dc; repeat from ** around, ch 2; join with slip st in 3rd ch of beginning ch-5. Fasten off.

Attach Fringe: Cut 4 strands of B, each 12” (30.5 cm) long. Hold all 4 stands together and fold in half. Insert crochet hook from right side to wrong side through first space on one short edge of runner, place fold on hook and draw fold through to right side, thread ends of strands through loop formed by fold and pull on the ends to tighten (fringe knot made). Repeat this process to attach a fringe to every space across both short ends of runner.
First Row of Knots: Turn runner over so wrong side is facing you. Separate first 2 fringes into 2 groups of 4 strands each. Begin with the 2nd group of 4-strands from the first fringe and the first group of 4-strands from the 2nd fringe. Tie the two groups together with an overhand knot and pull tight about ¾” (19 mm) below the fringe knots. Repeat this process all the way across, leaving the last 4-strand group loose. Repeat across other short edge. Note: The first and last 4-strand groups of each short side should be loose.
Second Row of Knots: Beginning with the first (un-tied) 4-strand group from previous row, separate the next group of strands into 2 groups of 4-strands each and tie the first of these two 4-strand groups to the previous 4-strand group with an overhand knot about ¾” (19 mm) below the previous knots. Repeat this process all the way across both short edges. Trim ends as desired.

Weave in ends. Block and starch piece as desired.



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Even though this has a distinctive Jack o Lantern motif, its discreet enough not to be in your face. This is a lovely piece of Filet Crochet work. Theres an expertly designed chart to guide you, and if youve never worked Filet before, dont be intimidated by this project. Do download the pattern at Red Heart (Stacked Pumpkin Table Runner) so youll have everything at hand when you work on this.

I don't have a Halloween table cloth. This would be great for it this year. I have four grand kids that will love it. They are just big enough to enjoy it. I have crochet pumpkins, and ghost so this will join right in. Thank you for offering this great project.


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