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Navajo Inspired Crochet Afghan Pattern

Learn how to crochet an afghan that resembles gorgeous Navajo rugs and add some color to your decor.

Navajo Inspired Crochet Afghan Pattern
Navajo Inspired Crochet Afghan Pattern
This image courtesy of redheart.com

Add a pop of color and texture to your home when you learn how to crochet this southwest-inspired crochet pattern from our friends at Red Heart. This Navajo Inspired Crochet Afghan Pattern is designed in tribute to the traditional Navajo rugs and tapestry patterns. These stunning American Indian designs are known for their intricate textures, bright colors, and geometrical layouts. Layers of colors combine to show off intricate stitches. Originally designed for everyday use, this popular form of weaving became popular in the 19th century as a collectible.

You can learn more about Navajo Rug History here.

This particular pattern requires 11 different shades of yarn, meaning you will be switching between yarn colors fairly often. Each yarn is labeled with a letter in the pattern (A, B, C, etc.) and bolded to make it easier to follow along. If you aren't too concerned with using the exact same colors as the pattern example, consider creating it out of scrap yarn pieces.

Easy

Crochet HookI/9 or 5.5 mm hook

Yarn Weight(4) Medium Weight/Worsted Weight and Aran (16-20 stitches to 4 inches)

Crochet Gauge12 sts = 4” (10 cm) in double crochet and in single crochet.

Finished Size44" x 54"

Materials List

  • 2 skeins 334 Buff E RED HEART® Super Saver®
  • 1 skein each of RED HEART® Super Saver

    -656 Real Teal A

    -726 Coral B

    -378 Claret C

    -528 Medium Purple D

    -624 Tea Leaf F

    -3901 Rouge G

    -886 Blue H

    -776 Dark Orchid I

    -320 Cornmeal J

    -358 Lavender K

Notes

  1. Throw is worked back and forth in rows. Color and stitch patterns are changed frequently to create the colorful textured throw.

  2. To change color, work the last stitch of old color to last yarn over. Yarn over with new color and draw through all loops on hook to complete stitch. Proceed with new color. Fasten off old color.

Special Stitches

dc2tog (double crochet 2 stitches together) = [Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops] 2 times, yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook.

dc3tog (double crochet 3 stitches together) = [Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops] 3 times, yarn over, draw through all 4 loops on hook.

Fptr (Front post treble crochet) = [Yarn over] twice, insert hook from front side of work to back and to front again around post of the indicated stitch on a previous row; yarn over and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), [yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 3 times.

puff = Yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), [yarn over, insert hook in same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop] twice, yarn over and draw through all 7 loops on hook.

sc2tog (single crochet 2 stitches together) = [Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop] twice, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

sc3tog (single crochet 3 stitches together) = [Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop] 3 times, yarn over and draw through all 4 loops on hook.

tr2tog (treble crochet 2 stitches together) = *[Yarn over] twice, insert hook in next st, yarn over and pull up a loop, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice; repeat from * once more, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

tr3tog (treble crochet 3 stitches together) = *[Yarn over] twice, insert hook in next st, yarn over and pull up a loop, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice; repeat from * 2 more times, yarn over and draw through all 4 loops on hook.

How to Crochet the Afghan

With A, ch 129.
Row 1 (wrong side): Dc in 4th ch from hook (beg ch counts as first dc) and in each remaining ch across, change to B in last st, turn—127 dc.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to C in last st, turn.
Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as tr here and throughout), tr in each st across, change to B in last st, turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to D in last st, turn.
Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), dc in each st across, change to E in last st, turn.

Post Stitch Vine Pattern
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Place a marker in 3rd sc of this row.
Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.
Row 8: Ch 1, sc in first 7 sts, Fptr around 3rd (marked) st 2 rows below, skip next st on current row, *sc in next 2 sts, Fptr around 3rd st following last Fptr worked 2 rows below, skip next st on current row; repeat from * to last 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts, turn—127 sts (consisting of 40 Fptr and 87 sc).
Row 9: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.
Row 10: Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts, Fptr around first Fptr 2 rows below, skip next st on current row, *sc in next 2 sts, Fptr around next Fptr 2 rows below, skip next st on current row; repeat from * to last 7 sts, sc in last 7 sts, turn.
Row 11: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to F in last st, turn.
Row 12: Ch 3, dc in each st across, change to G in last st, turn.
Row 13: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to H in last st, turn.
Row 14: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to I in last st, turn. Row 15: Ch 3, dc in each st across, change to J in last st, turn.
Row 16: Ch 3, dc in each st across, change to K in last st, turn.

Puff Pattern
Rows 17 and 18: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.
Row 19 (wrong side): Ch 1, sc in first 3 sc, [puff in next sc, sc in next 2 sc] 40 times, puff in next sc, sc in last 3 sc, turn.
Row 20: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to H in last st, turn.
Row 21: Ch 3, dc in each st across, change to A in last st, turn.
Row 22: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to F in last st, turn.
Row 23: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to B in last st, turn.
Row 24: Ch 4, tr in each st across, change to D in last st, turn. Row 25: Ch 3, dc in each st across, change to J in last st, turn.
Row 26: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to G in last st.

Ripple Pattern
Row 27: Ch 1, sc in first st, *hdc in next st, dc in next st, 3 tr in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * across, change to E in last st, turn—169 sts.
Rows 28 and 29: Ch 1, sc2tog, *sc in next 2 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, sc3tog; repeat from * to last 7 sts, sc in next 2 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. Change to A in last st of Row 29.
Row 30: Ch 3, tr in next st (beg ch-3 and following tr count as tr2tog), *dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, tr3tog; repeat from * to last 7 sts, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, tr2tog, change to C in last st, turn—127 sts.
Row 31: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to H in last st, turn.
Row 32: Ch 3, dc in each st across, change to K in last st, turn.
Row 33: Ch 3, dc in each st across, change to F in last st, turn.
Row 34: Ch 4, tr in each st across, change to B in last st, turn.
Row 35: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to J in last st, turn.

Post Stitch Boxes Pattern
Row 36 (right side): Ch 3, dc in each st across, change to I in last st, turn.
Row 37: Ch 3, dc in each st across, change to J in last st, turn.
Row 38: Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, Fptr around 4th and 5th dc 2 rows below (in Row 36), skip next 2 sts on current row, *dc in next 5 sts, skip next 5 sts 2 rows below, Fptr around next 2 dc 2 rows below, skip next 2 sts on current row; repeat from * to last 3 sts, dc in last 3 sts, change to D in last st, turn.
Row 39: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to G in last st, turn.
Row 40: Ch 3, dc in each st across, change to E in last st, turn.
Row 41: Ch 3, dc in each st across, change to A in last st, turn.
Row 42: Ch 4, tr in each st across, change to F in last st, turn.
Row 43: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to C in last st, turn.
Row 44: Ch 3, dc in each st across, change to J in last st, turn.
Row 45: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to K in last st, turn.
Row 46: Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts, *ch 1, skip next st, sc in next st; repeat from * to last st, sc in last st, change to H in last st, turn.
Row 47: Ch 3, dc2tog (working over next sc and first ch-1 space), ch 1, *dc2tog (working over same ch-1 space as last dc2tog and next ch-1 space), ch 1; repeat from * to last 2 sc, dc2tog (working over same ch-1 space as last dc2tog and next sc), dc in last st, change to K in last st, turn.
Row 48: Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts, sc in next ch-1 space, *ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 space; repeat from * to last 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts, change to B in last st, turn.
Row 49: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), dc2tog (working over 2nd sc and first ch-1 space), *ch 1, dc2tog (working over same ch-1 space as last dc2tog and next ch-1 space); repeat from * to last 3 sc, ch 1, dc2tog (working over same ch-1 space as last dc2tog and 2nd to last sc), ch 1, dc in last sc, change to K in last st, turn.
Row 50: Ch 1, sc in first st, sc in next ch-1 space, *ch 1, skip next st, sc in next ch-1 space; repeat from * to last dc2tog, sc in last dc2tog, sc in turning ch-space, sc in 3rd ch of beginning ch, change to G in last st, turn.
Row 51: Ch 1, sc in each sc and ch-1 space across, change to I in last st, turn.
Row 52: Ch 4, tr in each st across, change to E in last st, turn.
Row 53: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to F in last st, turn.
Row 54: Ch 3, dc in each st across, change to D in last st, turn.
Row 55: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to G in last st, turn.
Row 56: Ch 3, dc in each st across, change to A in last st, turn.
Row 57: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to H in last st, turn.
Row 58: Ch 4, tr in each st across, change to C in last st, turn.
Row 59: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to E in last st, turn.
Rows 60–113: Repeat Rows 6–59.
Rows 114-119: Repeat Rows 6–11, change to D in last st of Row 119.
Row 120: With D, repeat Row 5, change to B in last st.
Row 121: With B, repeat Row 4, change to C in last st.
Row 122: With C, repeat Row 3, change to B in last st. Row 123: With B, repeat Row 2, change to A in last st.
Row 124: With A, repeat Row 1, change to E in last st.
Do not fasten off.

Border

Note: In Round 1, sc are worked evenly spaced across all 4 edges and 3 sc are worked in each corner. You can follow the detailed instructions given or work in any manner you wish to space the sc stitches evenly around the outer edge of the Throw.
Round 1 (right side): With E, 3 sc in first st, sc in next 125 sts, 3 sc in last st; working in ends of rows across side edge, *sc in first row, [sc in next row, 2 sc in next row] twice, **work 4 sc evenly spaced over next 6 rows, [sc in next row, 2 sc in next row] 4 times, sc in next row, [skip next row, 2 sc in next row] twice, skip next row, sc in next row, 2 sc in next row, sc in next row, 2 sc in each of next 3 rows, [sc in next row, 2 sc in next row] 3 times, 2 sc in each of next 2 rows, sc in next row, 2 sc in next row, sc in each of next 4 rows, 2 sc in each of next 2 rows, sc in each of next 2 rows, 2 sc in next row, 2 sc evenly spaced over next 4 rows, 2 sc in each of next 2 rows, sc in each of next 2 rows, 2 sc in next row; repeat from ** once, 4 sc evenly spaced over next 6 rows, [2 sc in next row, sc in next row] twice, sc in last row ***; working across opposite side of foundation ch, 3 sc in first ch, sc in next 125 ch, 3 sc in last ch; working in ends of rows across next side edge, repeat from *** to * (working these instructions in reverse); join with slip st in first sc.
Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each sc around, working 3 dc in center sc of each 3-sc corner; join with slip st in top of beg ch.
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in each dc around, working 3 sc in center dc of each 3-dc corner; join with slip st in first sc. Fasten off.

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I am also stuck on row #8 with the same issue as jschuh1090, I would really appreciate a video.

Tried this craft? What did you think?

I love this Navajo Inspired Afghan for the kaleidoscope of colors that stir the emotions. I would love to use this everyday in my bed or see this afghan displayed on my living room sofa.

I want very much to do this project. I have done many intermediate projects and yet I am stuck on this "Easy" one!! I am lost on row 8. I sure wished you had a video to explain how to sc in the first 7 stiches and then fptr around the 3 stitch 2 rows before. I know how to do the fptr but the instructions here are just NOT clear. Can you please help?

Wow this is a beautiful afghan with so many colors. This Navajo Inspired Crochet Afghan has me asking a few questions. #1 is are you using the whole skien of each color? #2 how can this be a easy pattern with all the different stitches used? This one will take a while to make but looks amazing. I'm going to give this one a try soon after I finish the long list of other things im making. Thank you for sharing this free crochet afghan pattern.

My chronically cold children left the Blue Ridge mountains and moved out West for college, and at least four settled in Arizona. So Im more than familiar with Native American blanket patterns and how theyre constructed. But for the less traveled, its very nice to include the link to their history and why theyre more than just textiles but rather individual works of art.

I agree, not an easy pattern by all means- I would say it is more of an intermediate because there are three or four different specialty stitches you will need to know and that may require practice on your part! I think this would be very fun to make and to see it come together. It definitely would make me feel proud to complete this.

What a wonderfully colorful afghan from Red Heart. It also requires purchasing a lot of different skeins of yarn. Good thing Red Heart yarns are readily available and very nicely priced but most of the time you can find a sale and save more. I am not sure I would have given it an easy rating because of all of the yarn changes and some of the stitches used.

I never enter a Michael's or JoAnn's without a coupon in hand. The minimum I'll take in is 40% off, and 60% is even better. JoAnn's was letting you bring in competitor coupons and comping them, too. Not sure if they're still doing that.

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