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Tunisian Stitch Crochet Sweater

Tunisian Stitch Crochet Sweater

This beautiful Tunisian Stitch Crochet Sweater is crocheted from the top down in rows and accented with a feminine star stitch around the neckline and hem. The crochet sweater shows off the subtle shadings of the soft and durable yarn. This wonderfully wearable Tunisian crochet garment would make a great addition to your wardrobe. The light green color is very flattering and versatile. You can work up this crochet sweater pattern and wear it with a wide variety of outfits once the weather becomes cooler. This pattern can be made in a variety of sizes which makes it the perfect gift for yourself or loved ones.

Intermediate

Crochet HookI/9 or 5.5 mm hook

Yarn Weight(4) Medium Weight/Worsted Weight and Aran (16-20 stitches to 4 inches)

Crochet Gauge16 sts = 4 (10 cm); 14 rows = 4 (10 cm) in half double crochet and Tks. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge.

Materials

  • RED HEART® Boutique Unforgettable®: 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) balls
    • 3941 Meadow
  • Susan Bates® Crochet Hook: 5.5mm [US I-9] flexible afghan (Tunisian) hook and 5.5mm [US I-9] standard crochet hook. Note: If your Tunisian hook has a detachable cable, you do not need a separate standard hook, simply detach the cable when working standard crochet
  • 3 stitch markers
  • Yarn needle

Directions are for size Small; changes for sizes Medium, Large, X-Large, and XX-Large are in parentheses.
Finished Bust: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52)” (91.5 (101.5, 112, 122, 132) cm)
Finished Length: 23½ (24, 24½, 25¼, 25½)” (59.5 (61, 62, 64, 65) cm)

Special Stitches
Tks (Tunisian knit stitch) = Insert hook between front and back vertical bars and draw up a loop.
Inc (Tunisian increase) = Insert hook from front to back under back vertical bar of next stitch and draw up a loop, insert hook between front and back vertical bars of same stitch and draw up a loop.
Notes: Since the back vertical bar has already been worked, you will not see it very clearly. Simply insert your hook just before the next visible bar, which is the front vertical bar. The loops should be drawn up tall so that they can be worked into on the following row.

Notes

  1.  Pullover is worked in a combination of standard crochet (half double crochet and Star stitch) and Tunisian crochet.
  2. Work begins at neck edge and is worked downwards, back and forth in rows. Increases are worked to shape the yoke. Piece is divided at underarms and body and sleeves worked separately down to lower edge.
  3. The yoke increases are worked on both sides of three markers and at beginning and end of rows.
  4. Draw up loops of Star stitches to a height of about ½” (1.5 cm). Each Star stitch has 5 loops. The eye of a Star is the large hole formed by the closing ch-1 of the Star.

Pullover

With standard crochet hook or cable removed from Tunisian hook, ch 87 (95, 95, 95, 103).
Row 1 (right side): Draw up a loop in back loops of 3rd ch from hook (2 skipped ch count as first hdc) and in next 3 ch, yarn over and draw through all 5 loops on hook, ch 1 (to close first Star), *draw up a loop in eye of Star just made, draw up a loop in back loop of last loop of same Star, draw up a loop in back loops of next 2 ch, yarn over and draw through all 5 loops on hook, ch 1 (Star st made); repeat from * across, hdc in last ch, turn—40 (44, 44, 44, 48) Stars. With right side facing, place a marker in the eye of the 8th Star, 21st (23rd, 23rd, 23rd, 25th) Star, and in the 28th (30th, 30th, 30th, 32nd) Star. Remove the markers as you work Row 2.
Row 2 (wrong side): Ch 2 (counts as first hdc here and throughout), 3 hdc in eye of first Star, [2 hdc in each eye to one eye before next marker, 3 hdc in each of next 2 eyes] 3 times, 2 hdc in each eye across to last Star, 3 hdc in eye of last Star, hdc in top of beginning ch-2, turn—92 (100, 100, 100, 108) hdc. Change to Tunisian hook or attach cable to Tunisian hook.
Row 3 (right side): (Forward pass) Skip first hdc, draw up a loop in each hdc across—92 (100, 100, 100, 108) loops on hook; (Return pass) Yarn over and draw through one loop, *yarn over and draw through 2 loops; repeat from * until only one loop remains on hook—92 (100, 100, 100, 108) sts. With right side facing, place a marker in the 18th stitch, 47th (51st, 51st, 51st, 55th) stitch, and in the 64th (68th, 68th, 68th, 72nd) stitch.

Notes:

  1.  The first and middle 16 stitch sections (between first stitch and first marker and between 2nd and 3rd markers) are for the sleeves. The other two 28 (32, 32, 32, 36) stitch sections are for the front and back (body) of the Pullover.
  2. As you work each of the following rows, move the markers to the stitch between increases.
  3. Eight increases are worked in each row.

Rows 4–9 (increase Tks): (Forward pass) Skip first vertical bar, Inc in next st, *Tks in each st to one st before next marker, Inc in next st, Tks in marked st, Inc in next st; repeat from * 2 more times, Tks in each st to last st, Inc in last st; (Return pass) Yarn over and draw through one loop, *yarn over and draw through 2 loops; repeat from * until only one loop remains on hook—140 (148, 148, 148, 156) sts (including 28 sts for each sleeve, 40 (44, 44, 44, 48) sts for front and back, not counting first st and marked sts) at the end of Row 9. Remove markers. Change to standard crochet hook or detach cable from Tunisian hook.
Row 10 (right side): Ch 2, draw up a loop in back loop of 2nd ch from hook, draw up a loop in first 3 vertical bars, yarn over and draw through all 5 loops on hook, ch 1 (first Star made), *draw up a loop in eye of previous Star, draw up a loop in back loop of last loop of same Star; inserting hook as if to make Tks, draw up a loop in next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw through all 5 loops on hook, ch 1; repeat from * to last st, hdc in last st, turn—69 (73, 73, 73, 77) Stars. With right side facing, place 3 markers, placing a marker in the Star of Row 10 above each pair of increases of Row 9. The Stars of Row 10 do not line up perfectly with the increase points of Row 9, just place the markers in the Star closest to each increase point, exact placement is not critical.
Row 11 (wrong side): Ch 2, 3 hdc in first eye, [2 hdc in each eye to next marked Star, 3 hdc in eye of next 2 Stars] 3 times, 2 hdc in each eye across to last eye, 3 hdc in last eye, hdc in top of beginning ch-2, turn—148 (156, 156, 156, 164) hdc. Remove markers. Change to Tunisian hook
or reattach cable to Tunisian hook.
Row 12 (right side): Repeat Row 3—148 (156, 156, 156, 164) sts. With right side facing, place a marker in 32nd stitch, 75th (79th, 79th, 79th, 83rd) stitch, and in 106th (110th, 110th, 110th, 114th) stitch.
Rows 13–18: Repeat Row 4 (increase Tks) six times—196 (204, 204, 204, 212) sts (including 42 sts for each sleeve, 54 (58, 58, 58, 62) sts for front and back, not counting first st and marked sts) at the end of Row 18. Remove markers. Change to standard crochet hook or detach cable from Tunisian hook.
Row 19 (right side): Repeat Row 10—97 (101, 101, 101, 105) Stars. With right side facing, place 3 markers, placing a marker in the Star of Row 19 above each pair of increases of Row 18. The Stars of Row 19 do not line up perfectly with the increase points of Row 18, just place the
markers in the Star closest to each increase point, exact placement is not critical.
Row 20 (wrong side): Repeat Row 11—204 (212, 212, 212, 220) hdc. Remove markers. Change to Tunisian hook or reattach cable to Tunisian hook.
Row 21 (right side): Repeat Row 3—204 (212, 212, 212, 220) hdc. With right side facing, place a marker in 46th stitch, 103rd (107th, 107th, 107th, 111th) stitch, and in 148th (152nd, 152nd, 152nd, 156th) stitch.
Rows 22–26 (28, 30, 32, 33): Repeat Row 4 (increase Tks) 5 (7, 9, 12, 13) times—244 (268, 284, 300, 316) sts (including 54 (58, 62, 66, 68) sts for each sleeve, 66 (74, 78, 82, 88) sts for front and back, and not counting first st and marked sts) at the end of last row.
 


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For even more great sweater patterns, check out our collection of 15 Crochet Sweater Patterns for Fall.


 



Form Armholes
Drop loop from hook, but do not fasten off. You may want to enlarge the loop and/or place it on a stitch marker to make sure that it doesn’t unravel as you work and join the underarm chains.
First Underarm Chain: With right side facing and a separate strand of yarn, join yarn with slip st in first st, ch 4 (4, 8, 12, 14), skip all sleeve sts to first marked st, slip st in first marked st and fasten off.
Second Underarm Chain: With right side facing and a separate strand of yarn, join yarn with slip st in 2nd marked st, ch 4 (4, 8, 12, 14), skip all sleeve sts to 3rd marked st, slip st in 3rd marked st and fasten off.

Body
Return dropped loop to hook.
Row 1: (Forward Pass) Skip first vertical bar, then draw up a loop in each st (including the marked sts, but not the skipped sleeve sts) and back loop of each ch across; (Return pass) Yarn over and draw through one loop, *yarn over and draw through 2 loops; repeat from * until only one loop remains on hook—144 (160, 176, 192, 208) sts.
Row 2: (Forward Pass) Skip first vertical bar, Tks in each st across; (Return Pass) Yarn over and draw through one loop, *yarn over and draw through 2 loops; repeat from * until only one loop remains on hook. Repeat Row 2 until body measures about 11” (28 cm) from underarms.
Next Row (right side): Ch 2, draw up a loop in back loop of 2nd ch from hook, draw up a loop in first 3 vertical bars, yarn over and draw through all 5 loops on hook, ch 1 (first Star made), *draw up a loop in eye of previous Star, draw up a loop in back loop of last loop of same Star; inserting hook as if to make Tks, draw up a loop in next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw through all 5 loops on hook, ch 1; repeat from * to last st, hdc in last st, turn—71 (79, 87, 95, 103) Stars.
Next Row (wrong side): Ch 2, 2 hdc in each eye across, hdc in top of beginning ch-2, turn—144 (160, 176, 192, 208) hdc.
Next 7 Rows: Repeat Row 2 seven times.
Next Row: Ch 2, draw up a loop in back loop of 2nd ch from hook, draw up a loop in first 3 vertical bars, yarn over and draw through all 5 loops on hook, ch 1 (first Star made), *draw up a loop in eye of previous Star, draw up a loop in back loop of last loop of same Star; inserting hook as if to make Tks, draw up a loop in next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw through all 5 loops on hook, ch 1; repeat from * to last st, hdc in last st, turn.
Next Row: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each eye across, hdc in top of beginning ch-2. Fasten off.

Sleeves (work 2)
With right side facing, join yarn with slip st in first underarm ch.
Row 1 (right side): (Forward Pass) Draw up a loop in back loop of each underarm ch, Tks in each skipped sleeve st; (Return Pass) Yarn over and draw through one loop, *yarn over and draw through 2 loops; repeat from * until only one loop remains on hook—58 (62, 70, 78, 82) sts.
Next 2 (2, 2, 1, 1) Row(s): (Forward Pass) Skip first vertical bar, Tks in each st across; (Return Pass) Yarn over and draw through one loop, *yarn over and draw through 2 loops; repeat from * until only one loop remains on hook.
Decrease Row: (Forward Pass) Skip first vertical bar, Tks in each st across; (Return Pass) Yarn over and draw through 2 loops (decrease made), *yarn over and draw through 2 loops; repeat from * until 3 loops remain on hook, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops (decrease made)—56 (60, 68, 76, 80) sts.
Next 3 (3, 3, 2, 2) Rows: (Forward Pass) Skip first vertical bar, Tks in each st across; (Return Pass) Yarn over and draw through one loop, *yarn over and draw through 2 loops; repeat from * until only one loop remains on hook. Repeat last 4 (4, 4, 3, 3) rows (beginning with Decrease Row) 11 (13, 15, 19, 20) more times—34 (34, 38, 38, 40) sts.
Next Row: (Forward Pass) Skip first vertical bar, Tks in each st across; (Return Pass) Yarn over and draw through one loop, *yarn over and draw through 2 loops; repeat from * until only one loop remains on hook. Repeat last row until sleeve is desired length.

Finishing
Sew side edges of yoke and body together. Sew sleeve seams. Weave in ends.

Abbreviations
ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet
st(s) = stitch (es)
() = work directions in parentheses into same st
[ ] = work directions in brackets the number of times specified
* = repeat whatever follows the * as indicated
Tunisian Stitch Crochet Sweater
 

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Such a beautiful and dainty sweater is created when following the pattern of the Tunisian stitch crochet pattern. Selecting the boutique unforgettable yarn will assist in making this dreamy sweater easier because there is no need to change colors.

This Tunisian crochet sweater just looks good enough to eat! I have not yet done any Tunisian crochet (although I do have several sizes of the relevant needles) but I am simply going to leap off the cliff and give this gorgeous sweater a try. I just hope my personal crochet guru, Filly, is waiting at the bottom of the cliff to catch me, lol!

Very pretty sweater. Very surprised to see that this Tunisian stitch sweater is actually a crocheted sweater, by looking at the picture I thought it was knitted. The untrained eye would never guess that it was not knitted. I made an afghan with the Unforgettable yarn and I liked the way it looked. It is the perfect yarn for a sweater like this.

is there a way to lengthen the pattern?

Very flattering and versatile indeed, this Tunisian Stitch Crochet Sweater. The color used is so versatile, you can wear it in any occasion during the cooler months, and flattering because it complements the color of your skin and eyes. The yarn used actually has streaks of pink and yellow complementing the predominant green color and the star stitch used on the neckline and hem gives the blouse a clean finished look. I can't wait to do this myself. Thanks for this free pattern.

I am having trouble figuring out the placements of the stitch markers for the increases. It doesn't make sense to me that the sleeves would be next to each other but appear so when markers are placed as instructed in the pattern. Please HELP.

This Tunisian Stitch Crochet Sweater looks so nice I want to give it a try. I have made blankest using the Tunisian Stitch but never tried a sweater. I hope it turns out, after reading the pattern I be leave I can do it. The pattern is well written and hopefully will work out.. Thank you so much for this free beautiful crochet pattern.

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