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Fall fashion is going to set you apart from the rest of the world this season, so grab a hook and yarn and work up these Sexy Legwarmers. Crochet leg warmers are perfect for the fall season as they'll keep you warm, but stylish at the same time. Crochet legwarmers are great to wear with a pair of pumps, under a pair of tall boots or with a pair of leggings. This crochet design is worked in cables giving them that flirtatious look. The instructions provide beautiful photos to follow along with, so get stylish this season.

Crochet HookF/5 or 3.75 mm hook, H/8 or 5 mm hook

Yarn Weight(4) Medium Weight/Worsted Weight and Aran (16-20 stitches to 4 inches)

MATERIALS:

  • Worsted Weight Yarn in main color (leggings) and contrasting color (laces)
  • Crochet Hooks: H/5 mm and F/3.75 mm
  • 2 Yarn Needles (can be done with one buy 2 will make it faster, easier to thread laces)

SIZE:
How to find your size:
Sizes for leggings are S, M, L to fit calf measurements (10”, 11 ½”, 13”) Instructions for smallest size is written first with larger sizes in parenthesis. Remember though, these do have a corset back so sizing is kind of arbitrary. They really will stretch to fit/shrink to fit different measurements if you misjudge which size to make.
To find fit. Measure the middle part of your leg and choose the legging with the closest measurement.
The leggings won’t actually work up to the measurement suggested for each size, they will be slightly smaller to fit around the ankle (7 ½”, 8 ¾”, 10”) and then the laces will stretch them and hold them in place to fit the wider parts of your calf.

GAUGE:
8 dc x 4 rows = 2" square

NOTES:
Each row is begun with a ch 2, ch 2 counts as a dc st. (Fpdc stitches are generally a little shorter than a regular dc. The sides of the legging will become really wavy instead of
staying flat and flush with the rest of the row. If you are finding that your sides are pulling together, start your rows with a ch 3.)
The last stitch of each row will end up in the beginning ch 2 of the previous row.
Corner – when working the border, the 3 st that are worked into the 4 corners of each legging. They will be referred to in the eyelet round.

Special Stitches:
Cable stitch – skip 3 st, fptc in next 2 st, dc behind fptcs in third skipped st, crossing in front of all 3 completed sts, fptc in first skipped st, fptc in second skipped st. When completed you will begin working in the first stitch after all the cable stitches. See pictures for help with st placement. The numbers in parenthesis show the stitch placement order.
Dc Shell – 5 dc in space indicated.
Hdc Shell – 5 hdc in space indicated.

LEGGINGS (Make 2)
Using H hook and main color
Ch 32, (39, 46).
Row 1: Dc in fourth chain from hook, dc across, ch 2, turn. (30, 37, 44 dc) {St count remains the same throughout until you come to the border.}
Row 2: Dc in next st, *cable, dc next 2, fpdc next 2, dc next st, fpdc next 2, dc next 2,* repeat *to* across, ch 2, turn. {You may end in the middle of the repeat if you have an odd number of cables. That is ok.}

Sexy Legwarmers Sexy Legwarmers

Sexy Legwarmers Sexy Legwarmers

Row 3: Dc next st, *bpdc next 2, dc next st, bpdc next 2, dc next 2,* repeat *to* across, ch 2, turn.

Sexy Legwarmers Sexy Legwarmers

Row 4: Dc in next st, *fpdc next 2, dc next st, fpdc next 2, dc next 2, cable, dc next 2,* repeat *to* across, ch 2, turn. {You may end in the middle of the repeat if you have an odd number of cables. That is ok.}

Sexy Legwarmers Sexy Legwarmers

Row 5: Dc next st, * bpdc next 2, dc next st, bpdc next 2, dc next 2,* repeat *to* across, ch 2, turn.
Row 6-33: Repeat rows 2-5 – OR – until you reach you desired length. 33 rows should give you a 14” legging before the border. {Border will add 1 ½”}. If you want to make legging longer or shorter, be sure to end on either row 3 or 5.
On last row, ch 1, turn.

Border
Top: Sc in each st across, 3 sc in last st (32, 39, 46 sc), turn, working down the left side of legging.
Left Side: Sc around side of ch 2, *2 sc, around each dc, 1 sc around each ch 2,* repeat *to* ending with 1 sc in last ch 3 sp from beginning base ch. (48 sc), turn, working across the bottom of legging.
Bottom: 3 sc in bottom st of ch 3 from base chain, sc in each st across, 3 sc in last st (34, 41, 48 sc), turn, working up right side of legging.
Right Side: 2 sc around next dc, *1 sc around each ch 2, 2 sc around each dc,* repeat *to* ending with 2 sc in same st as first sc (52 sc), join with sl st to top of first sc.

Eyelet round
Top:
Skip 1, dc shell, skip 2, sc, *skip 2, dc shell, skip 2, sc* repeat *to* across top, finish repeats with sc, 2 sc in next st.
Left Side: Ch 1, *skip 1, sc next 2, ch 1,* work down left side until you reach last 2 st before the corner sts (see notes) skip 1, sc, ch 1, 2 sc in center st of corner,
Bottom: Sc next st, skip 2, hdc shell, skip 1, *sc, skip 1, hdc shell, skip 1* repeat *to* across bottom, 2 sc in center st of corner.
Right Side: Ch 1, skip 1, sc, ch 1, *skip 1, sc next 2, ch 1* repeat *to* up right side until you reach final 3 st, skip 1, sc in each of last 2 st. join with sl st to space just before the first dc shell.
There should be 18 eyelet holes on each side of the legging.

Laces
Using F hook and contrasting color
You will need to chain 2 ties that are each 7’ 6” long. Tie firm knots at the ends leaving 4” tail to thread onto your needles for lacing up the leggings.

Assembly
Thread a needle on each end of your lace and lace up the back of the leggings just as you would a pair of tennis shoes, being sure to leave a 2 – 2 ½” gap between the sides.

Sexy Legwarmers Sexy Legwarmers Sexy Legwarmers

 

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