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Bright and fiery, the Lipstick Red Crop Crochet Top is a fabulous crochet top pattern that's perfect for the summer heat. This intermediate pattern can be worn so many ways, you'll be wearing it all summer long! From rocking it at a music festival with shorts to pairing it with a high waisted maxi skirt for a barbeque or picnic, this top is so versatile. It's also great as part of your swimsuit coverup! Worked up with 2 balls of yarn and using half-double crochet stitches, this crochet pattern can be customized in your favorite color and comes in two sizes, small and medium/large.
Crochet HookH/8 or 5 mm hook
Yarn Weight(4) Medium Weight/Worsted Weight and Aran (16-20 stitches to 4 inches)
Crochet GaugeIn Half double crochet: 10cm/4” = 14 stitches; 10cm/4” = 11.5 rows
Finished SizeSmall, Medium/Large
- 2 balls of WATG’s Shiny Happy Cotton
- 1 5mm crochet hook
- 1 sewing needle
Lipstick Red Pattern
For pattern schematics, click here for the diagram.
Make a foundation chain of 90  chain stitches. (Take care not to make your stitches too tight!)
Make 2 chain stitches (this is your turning chain), then make a half double crochet stitch into the 3rd stitch from the hook. Work in half double crochet into each of the remaining 89  stitches of your row. After working the last stitch, turn your piece around so that the stitch attached to the crochet hook is on the right-hand side. You are now ready to work the next row.
Repeat step 2 a further 3 times.
Work 15 stitches in slip stitch. These 15 stitches won’t be worked any more - they will form the first back band. Tie a little snippet of yarn (= yarn marker) to the last stitch you worked to mark this point.
Make 2 chain stitches, then work in half double crochet until you have 15 stitches left of your row. Tie another yarn marker into the next stitch to mark this point, and leave the remaining stitches of your row without working them. (They will form the second back band.) Turn your piece around, ready to work the next row. You now have 60  stitches between your snippets of yarn - these are the only stitches you’ll be working across from now on.
Make a turning chain of 2 stitches. Work a half double crochet stitch into the next stitch, then make a half double crochet decrease. Work in half double crochet until you have 3 stitches left before the yarn snippet that marks the new end of your row. Make a half double crochet decrease, then work the last stitch in half double crochet. You now have 58  stitches left.
Work 1 row in half double crochet.
Repeat steps 6 and 7. (56  stitches.)
Work 2 rows in half double crochet.
Repeat step 6. (54  stitches.)
Work 3 rows in half double crochet.
Repeat steps 10 and 11 twice more. (50  stitches.)
Repeat step 6 a further 12  times - you now have 26 stitches remaining, and the main piece of your top is done!
Instead of flipping your piece around, you will now work all around your piece to prepare the edges for the lace trim.
There are 60  little “holes” along each sloped side edge - 2 holes for each row you have worked.
Working in single crochet, start with the first sloped edge and *work 1 stitch into the side of the next 3 rows, then work 1 stitch in between the last stitch worked and the next row.* Repeat the section inside the stars until you reach the back band.
Work in single crochet along the top edge of the first back band until you get to the last stitch of your row. Work 3 stitches into the last stitch - this creates a neat corner.
Work into each of the stitches along the short edge of the back band. Work 3 stitches into the corner stitch as before.
Work in single crochet along the bottom edge of your halterneck, then work 3 stitches into the last stitch.
Repeat step 16.
Work in single crochet along the top edge of your back band.
Now work in single crochet along the second sloped edge of your top: *work 1 stitch into the side of the next 3 rows, then work 1 stitch in between the last stitch worked and the next row.* Repeat the section inside the stars until you get to the top edge of your piece (you don’t need to crochet along this edge). Finish off your round by making a slip stitch into the first stitch of the top edge.
Make 3 chain stitches. *Make 3 chain stitches (taking care not to make the stitches too tight!), skip the next 3 stitches, then work a double crochet stitch in the next stitch.* Repeat the section inside the stars until you reach the first corner. Turn the corner by working a double crochet stitch into the corner stitch, making 3 chain stitches, then working a double crochet stitch into the same stitch.
Continue repeating the section inside the stars all around the edges of your top. When you get to the outside corners, turn them as before. After completing all the edges, join the round with a slip stitch to the first loop of chain stitches you made.
Your edges now have little ‘loops’ made of chain stitches - each of these is a chain space. For your final round, you will work your stitches into the chain spaces: instead of starting each stitch by inserting your hook into an individual stitch, you insert it into the middle of the chain space, so your stitches end up covering the initial chain space.
*Work 2 single crochet stitches, make 3 chain stitches, then work 2 single crochet stitches* into the first chain space. Repeat the section inside the stars for each of the chain spaces around all edges of your top. Join your round with a slip stitch into the first stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a 15cm/6” tail. Pull on the last loop until the end pops through - you have now secured the last stitch.
Straps & Ties
Work 60 chain stitches, then cut the yarn and secure the last stitch. Attach it to one of the top corners of your top.
Repeat step 24 for the other top corner.
Make another 4 ties and attach 2 to each back band.
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